Sober, all too sober

Sober, all too sober

With more and more people, especially young people, choosing to stay sober, Harry Eyres ponders two approaches to persuading them of wine’s many “intellectual and cultural satisfactions.” I had not meant to start like this. I had promised our esteemed editor a heartening column—and still hope this will turn out to be one. My intention was not to begin with sobering statistics and gloomy prognostications. But as the Spanish philosopher José Orteg…