“Happy Meals.” In a thoughtful, beautiful essay, Hannah Rowan describes her visits to “farms across Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania to see whether regenerative agriculture was a Luddite purity dream, a reactionary response to the inevitable forces of technological progress that would never be more than a niche market for crunchy consumers, or instead a prophecy that my local Safeway would soon stock tomatoes that taste like the ones grown a…
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