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Italians Enter Uneasy Truce with Invasive Blue Crabs, Exporting Crustaceans They Won't Eat
The cooperative sold every crab it caught this year and forecasts 20 million euros in revenue as exports replace incineration.
Italian fishermen have shifted from incinerating invasive blue crabs to exporting them, aiming to salvage livelihoods after a government-funded eradication program failed. The Polesine Fishermen's Cooperative Consortium now processes crabs through a joint venture, selling their entire catch this year.
The Consortium saw revenues fall 75% to 15 million euros in 2024 and 2025 as invasive crabs decimated native clam farms. This economic crisis forced a strategy change as active membership shrank from 1,500 to 850.
Crabs are steamed, frozen, and shipped to Sri Lankan partner Taprobane Seafoods, where workers remove meat by hand before exporting internationally. This strategy eliminates costly incineration by selling every crab caught this year.
Owner and chef Stefania Marchesini of The Yogi pays premiums for soft-shell crabs known locally as moeche to change Italian tastes. Customers are skeptical at first but react positively, wanting "to try the entire range of products," she said.
Climate change and drought-driven salinity drops favor crab reproduction, according to invasive species expert Piero Genovesi. Government commissioner Enrico Caterino has shelved the failed eradication program, while fisherman Federico Zago hopes the export market continues to grow.