The road to the Karakoram is hard. First, you fly to Islamabad. Then you fly again, in a smaller plane to Skardu — a town perched at the confluence of the Indus and Shigar rivers, the last city before the mountains swallow everything. Then you drive. Ten hours on roads that are dirt and crumbling at the edges, dust rising in curtains around the vehicle, the landscape becoming more severe with every kilometre. And then you walk. One hundred and t…
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