In Sudi, a small town in Karnataka’s Gadag district, a flight of sandstone steps now leads visitors back into the past. The air grows cooler as one descends into Nagakunda, an 11th-century stepwell built during the time of the Kalyani Chalukyas. The walls are lined with carved nagas, their coiled forms catching the light as it filters down into the stone-lined structure. For years, much of this world lay hidden under vegetation, debris, and negl…
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