A decade ago, I stood on a ranch outside Omak, Washington, covered in soot and ash. One of the largest wildfires in the state's history had just devoured over 300,000 acres. The rancher, Sealga Durkee, had lost most of her 600 acres to the flames. Thankfully, her home and 30 horses survived, and she was ready to pick up and start again. My partner, photographer Paul Nicklen, and I were on assignment for National Geographic, documenting the Pacif…
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