Stacks of lobster traps line the corridor of Menemsha Harbor, and gear is piled haphazardly so high among brightly painted buoys and plastic totes that it reaches to the roof of the shacks that skirt the edge of the shore. Copper streaks bleed from the edges of old nails on wooden traps, and on the ground, lines of rope are coiled like snakes. A weathered sign from 1994 proclaims Chilmark’s tricentennial, a piece of history that harkens back to …
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