Following the Hudson River to the Bohemian Woodstock, the Plan to Escape the Bustling New York City

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When they need air, New Yorkers cross Manhattan’s high gorges, take Highway 9 northwards from Harlem, and follow the Hudson course — a river that gets drunk with oil, Lorca said — to the soft peaks of the Catskills, which change color with the seasons and once marked the natural border of the United States. In these mountains you can fly-fishing or kayak through their rivers and lakes, take long walks along forest trails, slide down the slopes o…