First Taste: Nopa Fish market and kitchen brings the ethos of a beloved SF original to the Ferry Building.

First Taste: Nopa Fish market and kitchen brings the ethos of a beloved SF original to the Ferry Building.

Twenty years ago, a restaurant opened on Divisadero Street that changed the neighborhood’s trajectory. Nopa wasn’t just seasonally inspired and farm-to-table at a time when “seasonally inspired” and “farm-to-table” hadn’t yet permeated the city. It was a place whose ethos—making everything in-house, from scratch—and atmosphere were as much of a draw as its damn good Cal-Mediterranean menu and thoughtful cocktails and wine list. Nopa Fish's inter…