The dog was small and compact with a tough stance and short sturdy legs, a barrel chest, whiskers, and a demeanor not playful or aggressive or friendly, but something else, as he came trip-trapping toward me on the narrow lane above the town of Pola de Siero. His coat was a curly mix of black, brown, and dirty white. Some kind of tough little terrier, I thought, eyeing him warily. Out for my morning run, I had just rounded the corner on an uphil…
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