A journey across the Galápagos, where evolution never sits still

A journey across the Galápagos, where evolution never sits still

The Galápagos marine iguana can shrink its body by as much as 20 percent – a reversible adaptation for when food is scarce. Image: Derek Schnake A visit to the Galápagos Islands with naturalist guides reveals an archipelago in motion – tortoises on the march, lava still cooling and a fragile balance as record visitor numbers test one of the world’s great living laboratories By Bryony Cottam One Wednesday in March 1535, the bishop of Panama – a m…