Up until May, I’d only ever heard about morels from chefs who spoke about them with the kind of excitement once reserved for clandestine Detroit loft parties. Maybe they knew somebody who knew somebody. Maybe they foraged the morels themselves. Either way, the mushrooms remained oddly elusive to me for more than a decade of eating and reporting my way across metro Detroit. That changed at Trattoria Stella, the influential Traverse City restauran…
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